Trekking au camp de base du Kanchenjunga

On this day, we will be preparing for the next day’s adventure in the great Kanchenjunga region, the third highest peak in the world. For that, we will stroll around the marketplace of Thamel to purchase some trekking gears. Then, if the time favors, we may as well visit some historical sites around the Kathmandu valley, whose aesthetic designs and artistically superior architecture has been perplexing many great historians and explorers for several decades.

Kathmandu to Bhadrapur is a short flight of about 45 minutes. As you reach there, you will notice the drastic variations in landscapes and weather conditions than Kathmandu. The people of this region are different in complexion and accents than the people of Kathmandu: so are their cultures and customs. It, indeed, feels like being transferred in a new world.

Then, we will be transferred to Birtamod via a Car or a Jeep, which will be our stopover for the night.

Birtamod is a developed town in the district of Jhapa. From Birtamod, the highway leads us through the pleasant tea-gardens and paddy fields (in the right season) towards the Taplejung via Paachthar and Illam. During this 8-9 hour of drive, you will experience 3 different weather conditions: hot, cold, and very cold (snowy). This is a wonderful experience as you could see the landscapes changing from flat land, to verdant hills and finally the rocky terrain.

In Ilam, you may hold to catch the local taste of milk products such as curd, ghee, butter, and churpi (traditionally made hard-cheese). As you leave Ilam, the views start to grow beautiful- with sheer glimpses of Kanchenjunga and Makalu in the northern skyline. By the time you arrive at Taplejung, it would have been night. So, you will not get the time to explore Taplejung.

Our trekking expedition begins on the 5th day, which is a journey from Taplejung to Chiruwa. While on the trail, you can barely see the good Himalayan views. There are no mountains to see and stumble upon. Nevertheless, the overall journey is an interesting one as you get to lace up on the adventure to one of the highest peaks in the world.

In most parts of the trek, the chirping sounds of the wild birds and the rushing noise of the pacing rivers (Tamur Nadi) create a melodious setting. Through the village of Miltung, the trail is fenced by the cardamom plantations on both sides. The trees and local smells impel the vibe of exploring the world beyond the artificiality. The overall trek can be considered easy for this day as there are only a handful of sheer ascents- unlike trekking in the Everest or Annapurna region.

The steady climb up the Chiruwa runs parallel to the raging Himalayan river of Tamor. The green hills and deep valleys are the constant companions throughout the trip. As you arrive at the Taplethok, the natural calmness of the trail gets swapped by the busy feet. There, you will pay your permit fees and then, head on towards the Lelep. On the way, you will come across a series of stairs like rocky slabs that continues through the meadows and joyous scenery until Lelep.

This is the first tough day on this trek. The sheer climbs and unexpected bridges are enough to challenge your adventurous soul.

From Lelep, the trail dissociates into 2: so is the river Tamor. Actually, it is the fusion point of the Ghunsa Khola (a tributary) and Tamor river among which we will follow the trail that goes parallel to the Ghunsa Khola. There are deep ravines and thunderous rivers to put you in awe throughout the trek. Some part of the trail is threatened by Landslides, which usually occurs due to heavy downpour in the monsoon. Through Jauban and Lamatar, we will extrude out into an apparently isolated village of Amjilosa on a clear hillside that offers glamourous views of some of the mountain peaks. Amjilosa is a beautiful hamlet to spend your night in.

The higher you ascend, the challenging the trek becomes. From Amjilosa, it is a pleasant uphill walk through the forest of rhododendron, which blooms in red in the spring. After Thyanyani, the route passes through a waterfall and several unnoticeable imageries that is enough to astound the passer-by. A good bridge spanning across the river of Sakechung Khola carves your way up through the Birdungu Danda. A few distance up, a glittering peak of Ghunsa inspires you to continue your journey. Now, the rocky boulders make your way to the meadows of Gyabla, where there are only a handful of hotel options to stay.

Based on the terrain, the trek from Gyabla to Ghunsa can be separated into 2 phases- divider being the Phole. Until Phole, the climb is pretty steep and demands a lot of physical exertion. However, after that, the trail is not so demanding.

A few distances ahead of Phole, some memorial and chorten are erected for the WWF victims of a helicopter crash. While on the track, you will see a few tributaries passing across the trail. A large mani wall gives an inkling of the Tashi Choeling Monastery approaching close. This monastery is a historical site with highlighted paintings of the Lord Buddha and his followers hung around the walls. As you arrive at Ghunsa, take rest for the day.

Like in all high-altitude trekking, acclimatization is necessary at the Kanchenjunga region as well. And for that, there is no better place than Ghunsa. Although it is not an ideal point for acclimatization, we have to take a day-off to avoid any altitude related complications. Around the Ghunsa, there are only a few side-trips available that takes to nowhere but few viewpoints from where the views of mountains are relatively unchanged from what was seen before. Later, we will return to Ghunsa.

Today’s trek is going to very much rewarding. The trails are rocky, and the wind is chilly that makes the walk pretty challenging. There are pointed cliffs and overhanging rocks on the way. One of the waterfalls that we come across is frozen most of the time. A few turquoise glacier walls adorn the eastern flank. In fact, this trek makes you feel like you are climbing in the mountains.

A Thulo Dhungo Shrine, located few kilometers ahead, is a wonderful place to stopover. There is a huge trident of Lord Shiva at display in the temple that triggers the anticipation to see more. Consequently, the mesmerizing glimpse of the Mount Kumbhakarna fills that gap.

The reminiscent views of the Mera peak and massive glaciers of Kambachen sets the tone for the trekking. As you approach Ramtang, the views grow fabulous. The overhanging glaciers on the rocky boulders appear as if the icicles are about to fall from the rooftop. The juniper bushes and alpine trees line up the trail. There are waterfalls and snowy meadows that are unforgettable. It is indeed a heavenly glimpse.

After Ramtang, the trail is pretty easy, and the views of Pathivara Chuli begins to grow. We could see the blue sheep running down the snowy hills.

For the first few hours, the trail seems fair and easy. But, as you proceed further, the rocky boulders slow down your pace. The icy path makes the trail slippery and it becomes very difficult to walk. However, the compensation paid by the great view of the Kanchenjunga and other neighboring peaks enhances the overall beauty. The panoramic glimpse, visible from the base camp of Kanchenjunga, is a rare view because not everybody could make it to the base camp of the Kanchenjunga. It is considered one of the most dangerous mountain peaks in the world for climbing.

After spending quality time in the base camp, we will return to Lhonak for the overnight stay.

Lhonak to Ghunsa is the same trail that we have ventured on earlier. We will return down along a descending trail until Ghunsa.

From Ghunsa, the trail climbs towards the Selele camp along the winding trails of the Himalaya region of Nepal. The walk is quite challenging, but the views of the fishtail peak and Lapsang peak compensates the toil and trouble endured to reach the campsite in the Selele. The Buddhist prayer flags and chortens are tied all around the trails and houses. It is indeed a pleasant walk because all the time, you are blessed with the surprises of the Himalayas.

From the Selela Camp, we will proceed along the rocky boulders towards the Tseram in a south-eastern direction. The views of the snowy massif of Makalu, Pemthangtse can be seen while on the trail. It is a majestic glimpse when the legendary Everest just pokes its head out of the Pemthangtse. Within around 2 and half an hour, we will arrive at the Selela Pass (4480 m) where it becomes really tough to push your body further. It may be because of the altitude as well. Then, we will drop to the Chhuchung Pokhari (Lake), where the silent breeze whistles some undecryptable message into our ears. This is quite strange, but it feels like so. The trail climbs up and occasionally down until arriving at the highest pass (4750 m), which has an unsettled name: the most popular one is Nango Laptse pass. Finally, after continuing for a few more hours, we will make our appearance at Tseram.

After the rigorous climb of yesterday, the start of today’s trek won’t be as exciting as it was on the first day of the trek. However, the sensational views of the Kanchenjunga and many other peaks make you feel like every pain produces a new gain. While on the trail, you need to be careful in some places where the landslides and erosions have been occurring frequently. There are glacier walls and beautiful ridges visible from the different spots on the trail. When you reach Ramche, you don’t have to see the boards flashing the name of the place. The Himalayas themselves roar out in its full glamor. In this place, the Blue Sheep frequently runs up and down the hill encouraging you to capture one or more of them in your photograph.

From Ramche, it is the time to descend towards Tortong. We will walk down the same trail that we have ventured on earlier until Tsheran. Then, the trail runs over the ridge where hemlock trees accompany for a short time. The ravine then appears at Yamgachha Khola that marks the further way ahead. The trail goes through the idyllic forests covered by juniper, larch and rhododendron trees through the Anda Phedi, which is one of the rewarding stops to engage in the natural vivacity for a while. This interesting ride puts a halt when we arrive at Tortong after long hours.

It is a pleasant day with clear views of Jannu peak in the skyline. The trail descends and ascends several times through the river valleys and deep ravines until making an appearance at Yamphudin. When we reach Lasiya Bhanjhyang, the hospitality shown by the Sherpa family is truly commendable. They seem to be very humble and diligent. Many campers wish to pitch their tent in this region, but the limited water supply discourages many groups to camp here. The waterfalls and following rocky stairs truly inspire to conquer great things ahead. There is a beautiful monastery at the Yamphuddin that remains closed most of the time.

The track from Yamphudin to Khebang is quite strange. Most of the time, we will have to walk along the unhabituated region where barely there are any settlements to see. There are several ascends that you may not have expected at this altitude. It is indeed a strenuous task to conquer those uphills. There are various stone steps to cross. By the time, we arrive close to the Khebang, the agricultural farm fields begin to appear.

From Khebang, the trail goes along the pleasant forest fenced by the prayer flags and chortens on both sides. It is a colorful day as you get to encounter many monasteries and temples on the way, which are adorned with vibrant colors. In the radius of a few kilometers, there is a Pathivara Temple which is considered to be one of the holiest temples of the Hindus. Once we arrive at the Kamdime, we can catch a short walk around the village.

Finally, we will catch a drive back to the Birtamod along the same trail that we have ventured on earlier. It is a pleasant drive along with the tea gardens and paddy fields fencing the highway. Upon arriving at Birtamod, we will check in to our hotel where we will spend our overnight.

Within an hour drive from the Birtamod, we will arrive at Bhadrapur from where we will catch a flight to Kathmandu. It takes around 45 mins to arrive at Kathmandu from the Bhadrapur.

After such a long day of trekking, we will freshen up ourselves by joining the souvenir stalls and handicraft selling vendors. In case you like something, you may purchase one and take back home the memories from Nepal. If we get the time, we will also visit some UNESCO listed world heritage sites. At the end of the day, we will return to our hotel.

Finally, the time has come to say goodbye to all the fellows. The infinite inspiration and experience that this 25-day adventure has given to you are worth remembering for a lifetime.