Die Gipfel des Pamirs (Taschkent-Taschkent)

Transfer along the Pamir Highway to the yurt camp located on the Edelweiss meadow at the foot of Lenin Peak.

Arrival at the camp, accommodation, lunch. Walking to the Lukovaya (Leek) Meadow (3800 m).

Travel time: 3 hrs; altitude difference: +200 m, -200 m.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Edelweiss Meadow” Base camp (3600 m).

Travel time: 5-6 hrs; distance: 8 km; altitude difference: -100 m, +100 m.

The main attraction of the day is Tulpar-Kul Lake. Locals say that you should come to this lake only with bright thoughts. During a walk to the lake we will see yurts of local people and get acquainted with nomadic way of life.

In the northern part of the lake Tulpar Kol, there is panorama viewpoint to the Lenin Peak against the turquoise lake.

Return to the Base camp, rest.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Edelweiss Meadow” Base camp (3600 m).

Travel time: 4–5 hrs; distance: 6 km; altitude difference: +550 m, -550 m.

The route is led by a guide, without special equipment.

Petrovskiy peak (4700 m) is one of the easier and closer peaks in relation to the Base camp. It fits perfectly for the first stages of the acclimation process. We will ascent to the altitude of approximately 4150 m, where we will see the majestic view of the gran Alay valley, which features numerous lakes, huge Trans-Alay Range, and its main mountain – the Lenin Peak. Return to the Base camp, rest.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Edelweiss Meadow” Base camp (3600 m).

Travel time: 6-7 hours; distance: 12 km; altitude difference: +800 m.

The route is led by a guide, without special equipment.

Ascent to the Puteshestvennikov (Travelers) Pass (4150 m). Following is the descent from the pass – it is pretty easy and quick. After that, the trail turns into a virtually horizontal surface and stretches in parallel to the left moraine dump over a very long distance. We then cross a wild mountain river and ascent the trail that leads to the Lenin Glacier. Afterwards, we move along the body of the glacier until we reach “Solnechniy” (“Sunny”) Camp 1, which is located on the middle moraine.

Arrival in the “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m), accommodation, and rest.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m).

Distance: 12 km; altitude difference: +730 m; -730 m.

The route is led by a guide, without special equipment.

Stage 1: Starting from Camp 1 (4400 m) on the middle moraine of the Lenin glacier. Traversing the glacier crosswise and beginning to ascend the left (orographically) moraine of the Lenin Glacier.

Stage 2: Ascending the moraine’s ridge. The slope’s steepness reaches 20–25°. Entering a gentler area and crossing it towards the southern slope – to a wide couloir leading directly onto the summit of Yukhin Peak (5130 m).

Stage 3: Ascending the right (in the direction of the movement) side of the couloir, the slope’s steepness reaches 30° in some places. Most of the time we walk on snow, in some places on scree of small or medium-size stones. Left turn after the emergence from the couloir. After walking for some 15meters on a narrow snow-covered ridge we reach the upper plateau just beneath the peak and the summit proper.

Stage 4: The group will descend the mountain along the same route as they climbed it.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m).

Guided training with special mountaineering equipment in the vicinity of Camp 1 (4400 m): you will learn the rules of traversing glaciers with open and closed crevasses, crossing crevasses, ascending and descending a fixed line (a rope technique), and self-rescue. Preparing group equipment for tomorrow's ascent.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m).

Travel time: 5–10 hours; distance: 5 km; altitude difference: +900 m.

The route is led by a guide; climbing in crampons and in roped-up teams.

Stage 1: We will depart from the Camp 1 (4400 m) along a glacier right to the middle of the Northern wall, avoiding a lot of cracks, up to a steep snowy ascent and upwards (80 m, 35–40°) on a fixed rope or in a zigzag.

Move up the slope of the North Wall. This slope is avalanche-prone. To minimize the risk of avalanche danger, we recommend stopping for rest for no longer than 5-10 minutes.

Stage 2: Following the traverse to the right, we will reach to the snowy plateau, which is popularly known as the Skovoroda (Frying Pan). This traverse is extremely dangerous for avalanches, so you need to pass it as quickly as possible, while trying to avoid rest stops, even for 5 minutes.

Stage 3: After the Skovoroda traverse, we will ascent the slope leading to the high-altitude Camp 2.

Meals: breakfast at Camp 1. Lunch and dinner – self-cooking; products, gas burner, gas cartridges, utensils – taken from the Base camp storage.

Overnight at set up high-altitude tents in Camp 2 (5300 m).

Distance: 5 km; altitude difference: +848 m; -848 m.

The route is led by a guide; climbing in crampons and in roped-up teams.

Stage 1: From the high-altitude Camp 2 (5300 m), we will ascent the slope of 30-40⁰ to the ridge, while keeping to the left of the rocks.

Stage 2: After we reach the ridge, we will start moving left along a gently sloping ridge, and then take off to the Razdelnaya Peak (6148 m).

Stage 3: The ascent the top along a snowy ridge with a slope of 30-40⁰and very deep snow. There are concealed crevasses in the upper part of the route (from 6000 meters to 6100 meters), so it is recommended to move in roped-up teams.

Stage 4: Descent from the top the same way as you climbed up.

Meals: self-cooking; products, gas burner, gas cartridges, utensils – taken from the Base Camp storage.

Accommodation: Overnight at set up high-altitude tents in Camp 2 (5300 m).

Distance: 17 km; altitude difference: -1700 m.

The route is led by a guide; on the section between C2 – C1 descending in crampons and in roped-up teams required.

Descent to the “Solnechniy” Camp 1 (4400 m) the same way as you climbed up. Special attention needs to be paid to descending over the crevasses on snowy bridges.

At the “Solnechniy” Camp you will have lunch and get rest. Further descending to the “Edelweiss Meadow” Base camp (3600 m) by taking the familiar trail through the Puteshestvennikov Pass.

On arrival in the Base camp – dinner and rest.

Meals: breakfast – self-cooking; products, gas burner, gas cartridges, utensils – taken from the Base Camp storage. Lunch in Camp 1, dinner in the Base camp.

Overnight at “Edelweiss Meadow” Base camp (3600 m).

The climbing expedition to 6000+ m peak requires a reserve day. Severe climate of the Pamir Mountains and unexpected extreme weather conditions can make changes to the initial expedition schedule. Snowfalls, heavy winds, fogs and rapid temperature drops while climbing can force you to wait out the bad weather.

Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner.

Overnight at “Edelweiss Meadow” Base camp (3600 m).

Travel time: 5 h; distance: 280 km.

After lunch transfer to Osh through the famous Alay Valley, high-altitude Taldyk pass (3645 m) and Chiirchik pass (2408 m).

Arrival in Osh. Check-in at the hotel. We recommend a walk around the city and a visit to the Osh Bazaar, where you can buy national souvenirs.

Meals: breakfast, lunch.

Overnight at the hotel.

Transfer to the Kyrgyz-Uzbek border, followed by customs formalities. Journey to Tashkent via the Kamchik Pass (2285 m). Upon arrival in Tashkent, check-in at the hotel. Free time without transportation or guided services.

Tashkent is a multifaceted capital of modern Uzbekistan. Its architecture is truly impressive in its diversity: archaeological monuments from the Zoroastrian era, over 2200 years old, masterpieces of medieval architecture, monumental buildings from the late 19th century, the world’s most beautiful metro, and, of course, numerous contemporary constructions.

Meals: breakfast.

Overnight at the hotel.

Transfer to Tashkent Airport. End of the tour program.

Meals: breakfast.