Westsahara-Expedition

Begin the day exploring Agadir, a city with deep Berber and Phoenician roots that has continuously evolved despite past destruction from earthquakes in 1731 and 1960. Visit Souk El Had, one of Morocco’s largest markets, where over 6,000 merchants offer a diverse selection of local goods and handicrafts.

Depart Agadir in 4×4 vehicles, following a scenic coastal route toward Tiznit before leaving the highway behind. Travel along a rugged stretch of the Atlantic coastline, weaving between cliffs and hidden coves. Stop in Legzira, known for its striking red rock formations and ocean-carved arches, for a traditional seafood lunch in a local fishing village.

Continue to Sidi Ifni, a former Spanish enclave until 1969, where remnants of its Hispano-Moresque architecture still dominate the landscape. Settle into your accommodation and take in the town’s unique blend of Moroccan and colonial influences before an evening at leisure. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Safa Hotel or similar

Begin your day in Guelmim, a historic caravan terminal that once thrived at the crossroads of trans-Saharan trade. Explore the medina, where ancient glass beads and goods from centuries of commerce still surface. If your journey aligns with market day, experience the vibrant livestock souk—a striking scene of colour, sound, and tradition. Nomadic shepherds, draped in flowing djellabas with indigo-dyed turbans, arrive from deep in the desert, some travelling from as far as Mauritania.

Venture off-road towards Ksar Tifnidilt, a remote hilltop fort overlooking the dry riverbed of the Ouadi Draa. This river once marked the boundary between French Morocco and Spanish Sahara, and the abandoned military outpost of Tifnidilt still looms over the landscape, a relic of colonial-era defences. The setting is cinematic, reminiscent of an old French Foreign Legion film, where time stands still.

As the day winds down, arrive at your accommodation, your base for the next two nights, where the vast desert unfolds at your doorstep. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Ksar Tafnidilt Hotel or similar

The Dra Estuary sits between sheer cliffs and the vast Atlantic. Along this rugged coastline, discover remote seasonal fishing camps—simple shelters perched on the cliffs or tucked into caves, where fishermen cast their lines into the endless blue.

Scattered throughout the landscape, abandoned colonial military posts stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era, their weathered facades blending into the dunes. Camels traverse the sandy expanse, a timeless scene against the ever-shifting horizon.

If the tide permits, travel along an untouched beach, a wild frontier where the rolling dunes meet the crashing waves. Veer inland, following the winding course of a dried riverbed through a vast canyon—the only passage between the desert, cliffs, and sea. As the sun sets, return to your hotel. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Ksar Tafnidilt Hotel or similar

Departing Tafnidilt this morning, traverse a striking expanse of dunes before entering the lands known as Western Sahara—a region long off-limits due to the conflict between the Front Polisario and Morocco.

Journey onwards to Naila Salt Lagoon, an otherworldly landscape where golden dunes stretch towards the Atlantic. This vast saltwater lake, spanning 100 square kilometres, is Morocco’s largest and a sanctuary for migratory birds. Up to 20,000 species find refuge here, including flamingos, cormorants, gulls, and herons. Glide across the emerald waters, flanked by ochre cliffs and endless sands, as local fishermen navigate the lagoon in traditional wooden boats. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Sahara Beach Hotel a Akhfenir or similar

This morning, journey through the rugged landscapes of the Seguia el Hamra before arriving in Smara, a town steeped in history and Saharawi resistance. Founded in 1898 by Sheikh Maa el Ainin, a revered religious and political leader from Oualata, Mauritania, Smara was built with the support of the Sultan of Morocco. Before its construction, the site served as a key caravanserai along trade routes to Mauritania. With funding, architects, and materials sent by the Sultan, Smara quickly became a major centre for nomads and traders linking the Maghreb with sub-Saharan Africa. In 1908, Sheikh Maa el Ainin declared Smara a holy town and called for jihad against French and Spanish colonisation. Unlike other towns in the region, established by Spanish settlers, Smara stands as the only Saharawi-founded city—an epicentre of resistance that has endured centuries of conflict.

Over the years, Smara has been the site of numerous battles, including attacks by French camel battalions in 1913 and the Spanish Foreign Legion in 1934. In 1973, the Polisario Front was founded here, further cementing Smara’s role in the ongoing struggle for Saharawi identity. Throughout its history, the town remained under the influence of Sheikh Maa el Ainin, whose political-religious leadership extended across vast Saharan territories, from southern Morocco to Mauritania, northern Mali, and southwestern Algeria. It is said he forged alliances with over 100 tribes through marriage, solidifying his influence across the desert.

Today, Smara is a small but lively town, home to a well-stocked market and remnants of its storied past, including the Hispano-Moresque colonial military quarters and the Zawiya Palace, built by Maa el Ainin from stone, featuring intricate white plaster bas-relief ceilings.

This evening, immerse yourself in Saharawi culture as you experience a traditional feast, accompanied by the rhythmic beats of women’s drumming—an authentic expression of the region’s enduring spirit. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Hotel Sahariano or similar

In Smara, meet up with your local guide—a nomad from a Sahrawi tribe—who will lead you on a true off-road desert expedition, navigating the vast and untamed landscapes of the former Western Sahara from north to south.

Over the next four days, traverse shifting dunes and remote desert tracks, encountering wells where the legendary Reguibat nomads bring their camels to drink. With a bit of luck, you may have the rare opportunity to meet these nomads, whose way of life has remained unchanged for generations. Explore an area rich in ancient petroglyphs, only recently uncovered and still under archaeological study—an extraordinary glimpse into the deep history of the Sahara.

For the next three nights, camp beneath the vast desert sky in spacious Moorish tents, complete with mattresses and carpets for comfort. Dinners will be prepared over the fire, blending fresh and preserved ingredients, as you embrace the raw beauty of the desert in one of the most isolated regions on earth. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Camping in Morish Tents (Bedding is airbeds on Moroccan mats)

Continue your journey towards the Atlantic, navigating ever-changing desert terrain before arriving in Dakhla. This remote peninsula is a place of striking natural beauty, where the Sahara meets the sea.

The Rio de Oro, a 40-kilometre-long inlet, carves through the landscape, framed by rugged cliffs and sweeping dunes. Here, the elements blend into a surreal palette—deep blue ocean, golden sands, emerald seaweed fields, and dark volcanic rock. A place of contrast and tranquillity, Dakhla is a fitting gateway to the final stretch of your desert expedition. (B,L,D)

Overnight – Hotel Buena Vista or similar

Follow the coastline where rolling dunes meet the Atlantic, a striking contrast of desert and ocean. Depending on the tide, witness a rare phenomenon—when the sea rises, it floods the low-lying desert, transforming rocks and dunes into fleeting islands adrift in shimmering waters. Arrive in Dakhla, a remote outpost originally established by Spanish navigators in 1502 as Villa Cisneros. Visit the bustling fishing harbour, where vibrant boats bob in the current, before enjoying a seafood lunch at a local oyster farm. Known globally for its world-class kitesurfing, Dakhla’s windswept shores attract adventurers from around the world.

Return to your hotel to freshen up before transferring to the airport for your onward journey. (B)